Eastern State Penitentiary entrance.

Eastern State Penitentiary Tours

Field review by the editors.

Philadelphia, Pennsylvania

Eastern State Penitentiary was the largest building in America when it opened in 1829. Its grounds still cover a dozen acres; its 30-foot-high walls extend for nearly a mile.

At the time, the prison site was just outside of Philadelphia (which has since grown up around it). A brooding and looming pile at the top of a hill, grim and castle-like, it was purposefully designed to inspire dread.

It was also a tourist attraction, even back then.

In fact, by the mid-1800s the Penitentiary boasted that it was the second most popular tourist attraction in America, trailing only Niagara Falls.

Hallway view of a cell block.

Mingling convicts and tourists may not seem wise, but it worked because the convicts didn't mingle with anyone. They spent 23 hours a day locked in isolation cells -- which were as spacious as some modern efficiency apartments -- and the other hour they spent outdoors, alone, with leather bags over their heads. Guards wore socks over their shoes to hear any attempts to communicate between cells. Visitors often remarked on the unearthly silence of the place.

This monkish system, designed to inspire penitence (hence the word Penitentiary), was unique in the U.S. -- and it led to charges that Eastern State was a "maniac-maker." "Inmates were going insane in their cells," conceded tour guide April. "This was like something out of Europe."

Switches.

Crowding eventually closed the Penitentiary in 1971. For 20 years it sat abandoned, overrun by weeds and feral cats. The city boldly talked of turning it into a shopping mall or condos.

But in 1992 Eastern State Penitentiary reopened as a wild and woolly tourist attraction. Visitors had to sign safety waivers and wear hardhats. April reassured us that those days are over, and that the Penitentiary is now a "stabilized ruin."

Wooden 2x4 arches and netting keep the ceiling from collapsing on the guests. April said the goal is to keep the Penitentiary as a ruin ("We're not looking to restore it") and that it's really a safe place to be, since it's so old that it has no lead paint or asbestos.

Eastern State Penitentiary is unlike any other prison-turned-tourist-attraction in America. There are no clanging metal doors, no tiers of tiny cells stacked atop each other.

The well-appointed cell of gangster Al Capone.
The well-appointed cell of gangster Al Capone.

The barrel-vaulted ceilings suggest a cathedral, while the long halls lined with wooden doors reminded us of a stable. Formerly whitewashed walls have blackened with age; stalactites hang from the ceilings; crumbling plaster and big chunks of flaking paint are everywhere, as if the building had leprosy.

"Unstabilized" wings can be glimpsed through metal gates, and resemble the rotting interiors of a sunken ocean liner.

The Penitentiary provides guided tours, self-guided audio tours, or you can just walk around and read the signs and ask questions of the seated guides, who occupy strategic spots formerly used by guards. People on audio tours always seem zombie-like to us, but here it's especially noticeable, as people stare, glassy-eyed, and bump into you in the half-darkness.

Hall of cells.

The place is still eerily silent.

April offered many prison wonders for our inspection. There's second floor view from Cell Block 7 ("one of the most beautiful cell blocks"), and the well-appointed cell of former star prisoner Al Capone, and Cell Block 12, "the haunted cell block" where people pay to be locked in overnight to see ghosts (It's also the location for "Terror Behind The Walls," one of America's creepier Halloween attractions.)

The gift shop at Eastern State Penitentiary is amply stocked, with Al Capone shot glasses and Hooded Prisoner coffee mugs, iron duplicates of the Penitentiary's original giant keys, and copies of Going to Prison?, "A practical guide for the first-time offender."

Asked if she actually enjoyed working at Eastern State Penitentiary, April's answer echoed the lure of horror that's drawn people here for over 150 years.

"Being here, for me, it's just the scariest thing," she said. "This is the awesome-ist place ever."

Eastern State Penitentiary Tours

Address:
2124 Fairmount Ave., Philadelphia, PA
Directions:
Northwest edge of downtown. I-676/Vine St. Expressway to Benjamin Franklin Parkway exit, turn north onto 22nd St., pass the Museum of Art on the left and continue five blocks north to Fairmount Ave.
Hours:
Daily 10 am - 5 pm (last entry at 4) (Call to verify)
Phone:
215-236-3300
RA Rates:
Major Fun
Save to My Sights

Nearby Offbeat Places

More Quirky Attractions in Pennsylvania

Stories, reports and tips on tourist attractions and odd sights in Pennsylvania.

Explore Thousands of Unique Roadside Landmarks!

Strange and amusing destinations in the US and Canada are our specialty. Start here.
Use RoadsideAmerica.com's Attraction Maps to plan your next road trip.

April 23, 2014

My Sights

Create Your Own Bizarre Road Trips!

Try My Sights

Roadside America app
Roadside Presidents app

Pennsylvania Latest Tips and Stories

Latest Visitor Tips

Sight of the Week

Sight of the Week

1964-65 New York World's Fair Attractions, Queens, New York (Apr 21-27, 2014)

SotW Archive

USA and Canada Tips and Stories

Latest Visitor Tips

Sightings. Arrives without warning. Leaves no burn marks. A free newsletter from RoadsideAmerica.com. Subscribe now!
RoadsideAmerica.com Hotel & Motel Finder

Special online rates for hotels & motels.

Nearby Hotels and Motels, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania

Nightly rates found:

Book Online Now