Road trip news, rants, and ruminations by the Editors of

Graffiti Highway Returns To The Soil

View of an informal greeting on the highway.Here’s an early, unexpected casualty of the covid-19 virus: the Centralia “Graffiti Highway,” a three-quarter-mile stretch of former Pennsylvania Highway 61 just south of town. It’s been closed since 1993. Centralia sits atop a burning coal mine, and fumes could occasionally be seen venting from cracks in the abandoned roadway.

Decades of visitors — trespassing where they shouldn’t — had subsequently covered the asphalt with graffiti in chalk and spray paint.

According to a report on local news station WNEP, during the nationwide covid-19 shutdown, desperate (and really dumb) partiers converged on the highway and began setting fires, which they recorded on video and posted online. That was too much for the property owner, who in early April paid a local coal company to haul in 400 dump trucks of dirt and bury the roadway.

No more Highway 61, no more graffiti, no more parties.

A company spokesman told WNEP that “we’ll probably plant it, and hopefully there will be trees and grass growing there.”

Cheery advice from the Graffiti Highway.

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Roadside Attractions: Virus Safety Closings

Weeki Wachee Underwater Tea Party.

We held our breath, scrubbed our smartphones, washed our hands, and decided we might have something to add to the endless stream of pandemic posts. Follow us down the rabbit hole for a glimpse of abrupt changes underway across America’s pockmarked face of quirky attractions.

In response to the COVID-19 situation, it’s no surprise that many roadside attractions are closing, or changing open hours and tour availability. In particular, even if a region’s leisure road travel is unrestricted, large indoor attractions and museums have paused activity to stop community spread. Hotels in many places are shut down, public festivals canceled or postponed.

It’s most important for you and your family to stay safe. Help slow down the virus spread by staying home. While cooped up, if it seems fun at all, poke around our website or app for ideas for a someday trip.

Titan Missile Museum.

We conducted a quick Facebook and website check on a few of our favorite roadside attractions (see table below). Some have announced closings (not expected seasonality), some still appear to be open (barring a business operation restriction). Some attraction websites are late posting notification about closing (no surprise; an outsider artist with beer bottle palace skills may not be a WordPress wiz). One Philadelphia attraction — the Mutter Museum — announced its closing between the first time we checked and an hour later when we confirmed (on the plus side, when they do reopen, we anticipate great interest in their “Spit Spreads Death!” exhibit).

As the health crisis and response unfolds, some states have closed nearly all museums, indoor attractions, and theme parks. National park entrances fees have been waived, but many parks are closed (Yosemite N.P. gates shut today until further notice). In the last few days, California’s governor told everyone to stay home and non-essential businesses to shutter. Then Nevada, Illinois, Connecticut and New York issued similar emergency declarations. These restrictions will probably spread and tighten.

Slumbering in Rock City's Fairyland Caverns.

Keep in mind that an attraction’s status may change, and many don’t update online. Call or email them directly to find the most current info, and be patient if you don’t hear back right away or at all. These plucky businesses and projects — mom & pop, independent, volunteer-run, educational, nonprofit — may need your love and tourism attention when the dust settles.

Status of Select Roadside Attractions

As reported on attraction FB and web pages up to March 20, 2020:

State Town Attraction Status
AL Birmingham Sloss Furnaces Closed until further notice
AL Cullman Ave Maria Grotto Open, Grounds, Gift Shop
AL Huntsville U.S. Space & Rocket Center Closed thru April 12, 2020
AZ Dragoon The Thing Listed as open
AZ Green Valley Titan Missile Museum Closed until further notice
AZ Holbrook Wigwam Village Motel No. 6 Listed as open
AZ Picacho Rooster Cogburn Ostrich Ranch Listed as open
CA Felicity Official Center of the World Listed as open, outdoor only.
CA Klamath Trees Of Mystery Listed as open
CA Leggett Chandelier Drive-Thru Tree Listed as open (stay in car)
CA Niland Salvation Mountain Unofficial outdoors
CA Piercy Confusion Hill Closed through April 6, 2020
CA Santa Cruz Santa Cruz Mystery Spot Closed through April 7, 2020
CO Colorado Springs Dragon Man’s Military Museum Closed until April 5, 2020
FL Homestead Coral Castle Listed as open, outdoors
FL Kissimmee Gator Land Closed until further notice, post daily "School of Crocs" video
FL Weeki Wachee Mermaids of Weeki Wachee Closed until further notice.
GA Lookout Mountain Rock City Closed until March 28, 2020
KS Cawker City World’s Largest Ball of Twine Outdoor unattended attraction
KS Lucas The Garden of Eden Closed until further notice
KY Williamstown Ark Encounter and Creation Museum Closed through April 1, 2020
LA Abita Springs Abita Mystery House Closed until further notice
LA New Orleans Mardi Gras World Closed until further notice
MD Baltimore National Great Blacks In Wax Museum Closed until April 2020
MD Silver Spring National Museum of Health and Medicine Closed until further notice
MI Dearborn Henry Ford Museum of American Innovation Closed until April 5, 2020
MI Ishpeming Da Yoopers Tourist Trap Listed as open, partly outdoors
MN Darwin Biggest Ball of Twine in Minnesota Outdoor unattended attraction
MO Branson Titanic Museum Closed until April 10, 2020
MO St. Joseph Glore Psychiatric Museum Closed until further notice
MO St. Louis City Museum Closed until April 2020
NE Minden Harold Warp’s Pioneer Village Listed as open
NJ Margate City Lucy the Elephant Closed until April 2020
NV Primm Bonnie and Clyde’s Death Car Closed until further notice
OH Wright Patterson AFB National Museum of the United States Air Force Closed until further notice
OR Gold Hill Oregon Vortex Closed until April 15, 2020
PA Philadelphia Mutter Museum Closed until further notice
SC Dillon South Of The Border Listed as open
SD Wall Wall Drug Listed as open
TN Memphis Graceland Closed until April 4, 2020
TN Pigeon Forge Alcatraz East Closed until further notice
TX Amarillo Cadillac Ranch Outdoor unattended attraction
TX Houston National Museum of Funeral History Closed until further notice
UT Moab Hole N" The Rock Listed as open
VA Danville AAF Tank Museum Closed until April 1, 2020
VA White Post Dinosaur Land Listed as open
VT Shelburne Shelburne Museum Closed until further notice
WI Spring Green House on the Rock Closed until further notice
WV New Vrindaban Prabhupada’s Palace of Gold Closed until further notice

Prairie Dog.

I’m very patient.

Sections: Attraction News, Roadside News, Tourism News
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In Praise of Tinted Copycat Statues

Unconditional Surrender, San Diego, CA - 2009

J. Seward Johnson passed away on March 10 of cancer. He was 89. His father was a Johnson & Johnson millionaire, and Seward himself made millions from a long career as a public sculptor, churning out artwork that average Americans loved and almost all art critics loved to hate.

Seward’s first roadside-worthy sculpture, The Awakening, featured a buried human giant clawing his way out of the ground — but it was an stylistic outlier. Seward really began infiltrating the public space when he started making full-color life-size bronzes of everyday people standing around, doing everyday things, which he would place on downtown sidewalks. The figures were so boring and realistic (except for their gold-tinted skin) that passers-by sometimes thought they were real people. The most conceptual of these early pieces, “Return Visit,” features Abe Lincoln talking to 1950s crooner Perry Como. Seward sold that one to Gettysburg.

Giant Tooth, Grounds for Sculpture, Trenton, NJ - 2010

Seward had made one oversized sculpture of an everyday thing — a giant tooth — and it proved so eye-catching that Seward began creating giant 3-D statue-versions of famous photos and paintings, which continue to be leased to cities and attractions for a year at a time, or permanently if they have the cash. There’s “Unconditional Surrender,” replicating the iconic sailor-nurse smooch at the end of World War II, and “Forever Marilyn,” mimicking Marilyn Monroe’s well-known pose in her billowing dress over a subway grate. Seward made a giant version of Grant Wood’s “American Gothic” and Renoir’s “A Dance at Bougival.” He even made a 31-foot-tall version of his own oddball Abe-Lincoln-Perry-Como statue, and cities happily pay to display it as a patriotic tribute.

Abe Lincoln and Perry Como, Gettysburg, PA - 2016

Seward used some of his millions to create Grounds for Sculpture, a 42-acre park that displayed his artworks between their city-stops (and exhibited the sculptures of other artists as well). It was equipped with a foundry where Seward could pump out more sculptures for culture-starved Americans, who would rather see a giant Lincoln than abstract or high-concept public art. According to his various obituaries, Seward was busy making copycat sculptures right until the end.

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The Elephant Is The Room

Interior with Edwardian decor.

Lucy, a six-story-tall elephant-shaped building on the Jersey Shore, has long been advertised as “the only elephant you can go into and come out of alive.” She will soon be the only elephant that you can go into, take a nap, and emerge undigested the next morning.

According to Save Lucy Committee Executive Director Richard Helfant, overnight stays for two people will be available on March 5, through Airbnb, for three days only: March 17, 18, and 19. Lucy’s innards will be decorated Edwardian-style, from the sheets to the rugs, to replicate how they looked in 1902 when a family from England used Lucy as a summer home.

Although Lucy offers a view of the beach through her eyeball-windows, there is no running water inside the elephant — just like in 1902 — so overnighters will have to walk outside to a bathroom trailer with a shower, toilet, and a sink.

Lucy the Elephant.

Because Lucy is 138 years old, the price per couple will be $138. Helfant has hinted that if this first experiment goes well, Lucy may again welcome overnight sleepovers — although that’s unlikely to happen during the summer crush of sunburned Lucy fans.

Day visitors during March 17-19 will be able to see the retro-interior between its overnight guests. Then Lucy’s innards will return to their usual tourist-friendly, non-digestible configuration.

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It’ll Tickle Yore Innards!

Mountain Dew ad cartoon characters.

Little remains of the original soft drink Mountain Dew except for its name, its garish red and green label colors, and the fact that it has enough sugar and caffeine to choke a mule.

It was concocted in 1946, in Knoxville, Tennessee, by two brothers who didn’t want to sell it or drink it straight. They used it as their own personal mixer for their whiskey. When it first hit the market in 1951 it was sold in little 7 ounce bottles, not enough to quench a 12 ounce thirst, but enough to mix with a shot or two of bourbon.

Mountain Dew in those days did not sell well, and tasted something like 7-Up. The flavor that Dew drinkers know today was invented in 1960 and first put into Mountain Dew bottles in either Marion, Virginia, or Lumberton, North Carolina (Both towns claim credit). The South loved the new taste so much that Mountain Dew was bought by Pepsi, which took the drink nationwide with a five-year-long hillbilly marketing blitz. Today the neon green beverage is the third most popular soda brand in the world.

Sign: It’ll Tickle Yore Innards!

Modern “Game Fuel” Dew drinkers have little awareness of the beverage’s corny origins, which is why Knoxville’s Museum of East Tennessee History is hosting a surprisingly sprawling exhibit that chronicles Mountain Dew’s history.

The timeline goes back to the day of moonshine stills and Prohibition, introduces cultural cousins such as Snuffy Smith and Barney Google, Hee Haw and The Beverly Hillbillies, and ends with Mountain Dew’s post-hillbilly marketing that associates the soda with everything from NASCAR to snowboarders. Rare vintage bottles are on display — there were over 900 different early varieties, making Mountain Dew popular with collectors — and there are lots of cartoony, bearded, barefoot hillbillies with flintlock rifles and floppy hats. There’s even an exhibit devoted to early Mountain Dew imitators such as White Light-ning and Hill Billy Joose. You can watch old TV commercials and listen to vintage radio spots with titles such as “Raidin’ Varmint” and “Airyoplane.”

Mountain Dew display.

Displays show how Mountain Dew abandoned its hillbilly roots in 1969, then flailed for decades with flop ad campaigns (“Taste the Sunshine,” “Get That Barefoot Felling”) before embracing its sugar-and-caffeine formula to become the fuel of choice for gamers, programmers, and insomniacs in general. There’s been a homecoming of sorts as well; one showcase displays limited-time retro-brews such as Mountain Dew Throwback that have resurrected the original 1940s image of a jug of cork-popping Dew shooting a hole in a hillbilly’s hat.

The exhibit runs through January 20, 2020.

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Nut Lady Sprouts Anew

Elizabeth Tashjian with yard sculpture and giant nut, 1985

Elizabeth Tashjian, curator of the world’s only Nut Museum, has been gone for 12 years. But like a burst of fresh growth in the Spring, interest in the late, self-titled “Nut Lady” has revived — thanks to a retrospective of her nut paintings, drawings, and sculptures at the Cummings Art Gallery at Connecticut College in New London.

According to the gallery press release, the retrospective “recreates the Nut Museum’s main exhibition gallery [which was the Nut Lady’s dining room] with all of its original furnishings, art, and displays.” It also features a video compilation of Elizabeth’s many appearances on national TV, serenading Johnny Carson, David Letterman, Jay Leno, and others with her self-penned songs, “Nuts Are Beautiful” and “March of the Nuts.”

We know, we know… a roadside attraction without its charismatic owner is like a tree without a nut. But this is still a rare opportunity, for those too young or too sane at the time, to experience the Nut Museum — or at least as near an approximation of it as is possible — before it was closed and bulldozed in 2002.

The retrospective is scheduled to run through December 6.

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