Holly Springs, Mississippi: Graceland Too

My husband got out and knocked on the door of Graceland Too, to no avail. Not to be deterred after our long drive, I went and knocked. And knocked. And knocked. I heard a "Yeah...hold on" from the other side of the black iron door, and our adventure began.

Mr. McLeod opened the door and our senses were immediately overpowered by the smell of Elvis. Not the fried-banana-and peanut-butter-sandwich smell of Memphis, but the boxed up memory smell of a true collector. We entered the house through the foyer, where Paul began his narrative, a quick-paced mental recording that switched on as soon as we asked for a tour. We were led into a small room that has records for wall coverings, a gold lame suit Mr. Paul wants to be buried in and a coffin that plays "return to sender" when the top closes.

I made the mistake of trying to look at the records as Paul pointed out, a motion he apparently does NOT like. He does indeed have an extensive Elvis record collection, artifacts, photos and newspaper clippings -- but he is the attraction.

You almost want to hit the door running and never come back, but Paul, with his slipping dentures, slicked-back pompadour, Hawaiian shirt and earnest looks, is almost like a magnet that you know will draw you back. Which is good, because, after 3 trips through the house, you become a Lifetime Member, complete with membership card.

Went to this shrine on Jan. 1st. It was the strangest thing I've experienced in a long time. I won't soon forget the smell. Don't, under any circumstances, go in August. As our group went from room to room, my feet would sink into the rotted floorboards. The main thing I did in each room was to locate an exit in the case of a fire. It's only a matter of time. He has no apparent central heat, just space heaters, with a huge amount of flammable material all around them.

I'd go again if someone wanted to go who had never experienced it. This is a place everyone should see at least, and at most, once.

My wife and I were so disappointed. We drove over two hours out of our way to check out Graceland Too and when we got there (maybe 10 a.m.) no one answered. We rang the bell loudly many times and no one came. As we were pulling away we saw someone I'm pretty sure was the owner whacking weeds next to the house. We killed a few hours in the town, had lunch, and then went back to the house after noon. We again rang the bell loudly, and this time we could hear someone talking in the house, yet no one ever answered the door. I'm still glad we saw Holly Springs -- there are some great things there -- but I'll always be disappointed we missed out on Graceland Too.